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Latvia Travel Information

Introduction | History | Culture | Getting There & Getting Around
Attractions | Facts for the Traveler

Introduction

Latvia is the small, flat and largely boggy meat in the sandwich between its Baltic neighbours. It packs a lot in though: start with Riga, its vibrant coastal capital, and move on to photogenic castles, music festivals and scenic river valleys.

Latvians are as keen on reinvigoration and nation-building as any newly independent nation. Visitors can witness first-hand the rapid transformation of a country that has only recently crept from under the doormat of history. This is one of those 'check it out before it's chockas' places.

Full country name: Republic of Latvia
Area: 64,589 sq km
Population: 2.34 million
Capital City: Riga
People: Latvian 57%, Russian 30%, Belarusian 4%, Ukrainian 3%, Polish 3%, other 3%
Language: Latvian, Russian,
Religion: Lutheran, Roman Catholic, Russian Orthodox
Government: parliamentary democracy
Head of State: President Vaira Vike-Freiberga
Head of Government: Prime Minister Einars Repse

GDP: US$20.99 billion
GDP per capita: US$8,900
Annual Growth: 3.6%
Inflation: 2%
Major Industries: motor vehicles, machinery, household appliances, pharmaceutical, food, textiles, agriculture
Major Trading Partners: Russia, Germany, the UK, Sweden, Finland
Member of EU: No

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History

Since 9,000 BC ancient peoples of unknown origin had inhabited Latvia, but by 3,000 BC the ancestors of the Finns had settled the region. A millennium later, pre-Baltic tribes had arrived and within time evolved into the Baltic Couranian, Latgallian, Selonian, and Semigallian groups. These tribes eventually formed local governments independently from the Finno-Ugric Livian tribe until the thirteenth century, when they were conquered by the Germans, who renamed the territory Livonia.

German sailors shipwrecked on the Daugava River in 1054 had inhabited the area, which led to increasing German influence. Founded by the Germanic Bishop Alberth of Livonia in 1201, Riga joined the Hanseatic League in 1285 and shared important cultural and economic ties to the rest of Europe. However, the new German nobility enserfed the peasantry and accorded non-Germanic peoples only limited trading and property rights.

Subsequent wars and treaties ensured Livonia's partition and colonization for centuries. The Commonwealth's successes during the Livonian Wars (1558-83) united the Latvian-populated duchies of Pardaugava, Kurzeme, and Zemgale, but the Polish-Swedish War (1600-29) granted Sweden acquisition of Riga and the Duchy of Pardaugava, minus Latgale, leaving Latvia again split ethnically. In turn, victory over Sweden in the Great Northern War (1700-21) gave Russia control over the Latvian territories. From 1804 onward, a series of local decrees gradually weakened the grip of German nobility over peasant society, and in 1849 a law granted a legal basis for the creation of peasant-owned farms.

Until the 1860s, there still was little sense of a Latvian national identity, as both serfdom and institutional controls to migration and social mobility limited the boundaries of the peasants' intellectual and social geography. The large baronic estates caused a lack of available farmland for an increasing population, creating a large landless, urban class comprising about 60% of the population. Also in the face of stricter Russification policies, the Baltic German clergy and literati began to take a more benevolent interest in the distinctive language and culture of the Latvian peasantry. These patrons (with such Lettish names as Alunans, Barons, Krastins, Kronvalds, Tomsons and Valdemars) soon formed the Young Latvian Movement, whose aim was to promote the indigenous language and to publicize and counteract the socioeconomic oppression of Latvians.

By 1901, "Jauna Strava" had evolved into the Latvian Social Democratic Party. Following the lead of the Austrian Marxists, the LSDP advocated the transformation of the Russian Empire into a federation of democratic states (to include Latvia) and the adoption of cultural autonomy policy for extra-territorial ethnic communities. In 1903, the LSDP split into the more radically internationalist Latvian Social Democratic Worker's Party and the more influential Latvian Social Democratic Union (LSDU), which continued to champion national interests and Latvia's national self-determination, especially during the failed 1905 Revolution in Russia.

The onset of WWI brought German occupation of the western coastal province of Kurzeme, and Latvians heroically countered the invasion with the establishment of several regiments of riflemen commanded by Czarist generals. As a defensive measure, Russia dismantled over 500 local Latvian industries, along with technological equipment, and relocated them to central Russia. The sagging military campaign generally increased Latvian and LSDU support for the Bolsheviks' successful October Revolution in 1917, in the hopes of a "free Latvia within free Russia." These circumstances led to the formation of the soviet "Iskolat Republic" in the unoccupied section of Latvia. In opposition to this government and to the landed barons' German sympathies stood primarily the Latvian Provisional National Council and the Riga Democratic Bloc. These and other political parties formed the Latvian People's Council which on November 18, 1918 declared Latvia's independence and formed an army.

The new Latvian army faced rogue elements of the retreating German army and squared off in civil war against the Soviet Red Army, comprised greatly of the former Latvian Riflemen. Soviet power resumed in Latvia one month later on December 17 by order of the Latvian SSR, which forcefully collectivized all land and nationalized all industries and property. By May 22, 1919 the resurgent German Army occupied and devastated Riga for several days. In response, the Latvian army managed to win a decisive battle over the combined German-Red Army forces and thereafter consolidated its success on the eastern Latgale front. These developments led to the dissolution of the Soviet Latvian government on January 13, 1920 and to a peace treaty between Latvia and Soviet Russia on August 11 later that year. By September 22, 1921, Latvia was admitted to the League of Nations.

Having obtained independent statehood in which Latvians were an absolute majority, the Government headed by Prime Minister Ulmanis declared a democratic, parliamentary republic. It recognized Latvian as the official language, granted cultural autonomy to the country's sizeable minorities, and introduced an electoral system into the Latvian constitution, which was adopted in 1922. The decade witnessed sweeping economic reform, as war had devastated Latvian agriculture, and most Russian factories had been evacuated to Russia. Economic depression heightened political turmoil, and on May 15, 1934, Prime Minister Ulmanis dismissed the parliament, banned outspoken and left-wing political parties and tightened authoritarian state control over Latvian social life and the economy.

The effects of the infamous Molotov-Ribbentrop agreement of 1939 steadily forced Latvia under Soviet influence until August 5, 1940, when the Soviet Union finally annexed Latvia. On June 14 of the following year 15,000 Latvian citizens were forcibly deported and a large number of army officers shot. The subsequent German occupation witnessed the mobilization of many Latvians into Waffen SS legions, while some Latvians joined the Red Army and formed resistance groups; others fled to the West and East. By 1945, Latvia's population dropped by one-third.

After the war, the U.S.S.R. subjected the Latvian republic to a scale of social and economic reorganization which rapidly transformed the rural economy to heavy industry, the strongly ethnically Latvian population into a more multiethnic structure, and the predominantly peasant class into a fully urbanized industrial worker class. As part of the goal to more fully integrate Latvia into the Soviet Union, on March 25, 1949 Stalin again deported another 42,000 Latvians and continued to promote the policy of encouraging Soviet immigration to Latvia. The brief "Krushchev thaw" of the 1950s ended in 1959, when the Soviets dismissed Latvian Communist Party and Government leaders on charges of "bourgeois nationalism" and replaced them with more aggressive hardliners, mostly from Russia.

"Perestroika" enabled Latvians to pursue a bolder nationalistic program, particularly through such general issues as environmental protection. In July 1989, the Latvian Supreme Soviet adopted a "Declaration of Sovereignty" and amended the Constitution to assert the supremacy of its laws over those of the U.S.S.R. Pro-independence Latvian Popular Front candidates gained a two-thirds majority in the Supreme Council in the March, 1990 democratic elections. On May 4, the Council declared its intention to restore full Latvian independence after a "transitional" period; 3 days later, Ivars Godmanis was chosen Council of Ministers Chairman, or Prime Minister.

In January 1991, Soviet political and military forces tried unsuccessfully to overthrow the legitimate Latvian authorities by occupying the central publishing house in Riga and establishing a "Committee of National Salvation" to usurp governmental functions. Seventy-three percent of all Latvian residents confirmed their strong support for independence March 3 in a nonbinding "advisory" referendum. A large number of ethnic Russians also voted for the proposition.

Latvia claimed de facto independence on August 21, 1991 in the aftermath of the failed Soviet coup attempt. International recognition, including the U.S.S.R., followed. The U.S., which had never recognized Latvia's forcible annexation by the U.S.S.R., resumed full diplomatic relations with Latvia on September 2.

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Culture

Amateur art thrives in Latvia. Clubs and individual enterprises have drama groups, choirs, ensembles, orchestras, and dance companies. Latvia has a conservatory of music, an academy of arts, and a number of specialized secondary educational establishments for students of music, painting, and the applied arts. Noted Latvian composers include Jazeps Medinš, Janis Medinš, and Emilis Melngailis.

Modern Latvian literature dates from the late 19th century; the national epic, Lacplesis (“Bear Slayer”), by Andrejs Pumpurs, was published in 1888. Janis Rainis, who died in 1929, is generally considered to be the most important Latvian writer. Literature is published in Latvian and other languages, as are newspapers and magazines. Like the other Baltic states, Latvia is well supplied with radio receivers and receives local and foreign broadcasts. Television broadcasts also come from local and foreign sources. Motion pictures produced in Riga have included full-length feature films as well as documentaries, short subjects, cartoons, and newsreels.

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Getting There & Getting Around

Getting There & Away

Direct flights link Riga with Berlin, Copenhagen, Frankfurt, Geneva, Hamburg, Helsinki, Kiev, London, Minsk, Munich, Moscow, Paris, Prague, Stockholm, Tallinn, Vienna, Vilnius, Warsaw and Zurich. There are no direct flights between Riga and North America, Australia or Asia. Latvia is yet to cotton on to the departure tax lurk, but once those tourists start pouring in....

There are direct buses to Riga from Denmark, France, Germany, Norway, Poland, Sweden, Finland, Russia, Belarus, Estonia and Lithuania. If trains tickle your fancy, the Berlin-St Petersburg service passes through Daugavpils in south-eastern Latvia. Trains also link Riga with Moscow, St Petersburg and Minsk, and Daugavpils with Chernivtsi.

If you prefer to suck in the sea air, there are direct ferries to Riga from Travemünde in Germany and Stockholm in Sweden.

Getting Around

Riga's airport is at Jurmala, 14km (8mi) west of the city centre. The airport is connected to the capital by bus and taxi.

Buses and, to a lesser extent, trains go just about everywhere in Latvia, although services are less frequent to off-the-beaten-track destinations. Both are cheap and slow. Riga has a comprehensive network of trams, trolleys and buses.

Driving and bicycling in Latvia are popular, as the main roads are good and distances aren't great. Most of the major car rental agencies have offices in Riga and at the airport. Driving is done on the right side, and there are 24-hour petrol stations along all the major roads. The Tourist Club of Latvia offers a nine-day cycling itinerary round Vidzeme and Latgale (eastern Latvia) plus three days in and around Riga.

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Attractions

Riga

Riga's not as pretty nor as architecturally interesting as Tallinn or Vilnius, the other two Baltic capitals, but it does have plenty of big-city bustle. You'll also notice an air of ethnic tension, fuelled by the fact that Russians outnumber native Latvians in the city.

Riga straddles the Daugava River, about 15km (9mi) from its mouth in the south-eastern corner of the Gulf of Riga. Centuries-old German buildings are strewn throughout the historic quarter of Vecriga (Old Riga), and taking the lift up to the spire of St Peter's Church for an aerial view of the neighbourhood is one of the highlights of a visit. Riga Castle dates from 1330, when it was built as the headquarters of the Livonian Order. It's now the home of Latvia's president.

East of Old Riga the city blossoms with 19th-century parks and wide boulevards. The Freedom Monument, erected in 1935, is the area's main landmark. Encompassing Old Riga, New Town dates from the 19th century and comprises a mixture of business and residential zones. Housed in several WWI zeppelin hangars south of Old Riga, the lively central market is the focus of the city's modern life and a fair barometer of its standard of living.

The WWII Riga ghetto was in the Maskavas suburb, home to Riga's only remaining synagogue and the city's Jewish Museum. Don't miss the Riga Motor Museum, 8km (5mi) east of Old Riga, which features cars that once belonged to Soviet luminaries Gorky, Stalin, Khrushchev and Brezhnev - complete with irreverent life-size figures of the men themselves

In summer, tables and chairs spill out onto Doma laukums (Dome Square), transforming it into a fun-packed plaza of cheap cafes, beer tents and late-night bars. You're spoilt for choice dining out in Riga, but if you long for a return to the good ol' days, there's a Soviet-style cafe in Old Riga with stale buns, plastic cups, drab walls and vodka at rock-bottom prices.

Bauska

The principal attraction of the country town of Bauska is its castle, built between 1443 and 1456 as a stronghold for the Livonian knights. This imposing edifice was destroyed in battle several times during the 16th and 17th century, but it was always rebuilt - that is, until 1706, when it was blown up during the Great Northern War. This time restoration work didn't start until 1976. The castle museum now displays various objects found when archaeological excavations were made during the restoration, as well as a small collection of 16th and 17th-century art. Ancient music festivals are hosted in the castle and its elevated grounds.

Just 12km (7mi) west of Bauska is the 18th-century Rundale Palace, the architectural highlight of provincial Latvia. It was designed and built in the 18th century by a baroque genius from Italy, Bartolomeo Rastrelli, who created many of St Petersburg's finest buildings. Bauska is 65km (40mi) south of Riga on the main Riga-Vilnius road. There's no railway here, but there are many daily buses.

Jurmala

The name Jurmala (Seashore) encompasses a string of small towns and resorts stretching 20km (12mi) along the coast west of Riga. With beaches, dunes and woodlands, plus museums, galleries, restaurants, pubs and inns, it's a perfect recipe for a relaxing break from life on the road. Better still, it's rarely crowded and easy to reach. There are several trains per hour from Riga and a special Jurmala-bound taxi rank in front of Riga's railway station. If you're driving into Jurmala, you have to pay a toll.

Sigulda

Known locally as the 'Switzerland of Latvia', Sigulda and its environs boast a string of medieval castles and legend-laden caves scattered along one of the prettiest stretches of the Gauja valley. Sigulda, the main gateway to Gauja National Park, is a minor health resort and a winter sports centre. Little remains of old Sigulda Castle, but the 19th-century New Sigulda Castle, former residence of the Knights of the Sword, is now a sanatorium. Gutmanis Cave and Viktors Cave play important roles in local folklore. Sigulda is 53km (33mi) east of Riga, and there are plenty of buses and trains to and from the capital.

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Facts for the Traveler

Visas: Many nationalities require a visa, and a few require an invitation as well. Citizens of Andorra, Belgium, the Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, the UK, Australia and the USA can travel visa-free for stays of up to 90 days; citizens of many countries do not require a visa if they already have one for Estonia or Lithuania
Time Zone: GMT/UTC +2
Dialling Code: 371
Electricity: 220V ,50Hz
Weights & measures: Metric

When to Go

Spring and summer (April through September) are far and away the choicest times of year to visit. These months see better weather, more daylight, fresher food and plenty of folk festivals cropping up nationwide. The weather during this period is suitable for most outdoor activities - as long as you don't mind the slushy and chilly weeks at either end. Winter weather (from November through late March) can be extreme in Latvia, but this period also sees the most theatre performances and concerts and is a skiers' dream. July and August is the peak tourist season, when hotels are often fully booked.

Events

The first national song festival in Latvia was held in 1873 and has evolved into one of the most emotive events on the calendar. It's held every five years and climaxes with a giant choir singing in a huge open-air amphitheatre in the national capital.

Big midsummer celebrations start on 23 June, when people flock to the countryside to celebrate amid the lakes and pine forests. Special beers, cheeses and pies are prepared and wreaths strung from grasses, while flowers and herbs are hung around the home to bring good luck and keep families safe from evil spirits.

Gadatirgus is a big arts and crafts fair held in Riga in the first weekend in June. The Baltika Annual International Folklore Festival, which has taken place in each Baltic capital in turn since 1987, is a weeklong affair of music, dance, exhibitions and parades usually held in mid-July. It's next due to be held in Riga in 2000.

Other music festivals include the International Festival of Organ Music, held in the capital in June; the Opera Music Festival, held in Sigulda in July; the Festival of Ancient Music, at Bauska Castle in July; and Liepajas Dzintars, a rock festival held in Liepaja in mid-August. Ascension Day, a big Roman Catholic gig, is celebrated between 14 and 16 August in Aglona.

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