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Sweden Travel Information

Introduction

The country that brought you IKEA, Greta Garbo and Absolut Vodka can almost be forgiven for letting the smorgasbord, the Volvo (driver) and all those zinc-creamed tennis fans out (but not Roxette, no, never Roxette). Since the devaluation of the Swedish crown, Sweden has become quite affordable; at any rate, the simple joys of fresh air, landscape and culture are among the least extravagant and most rewarding of pleasures available to visitors. Stockholm, the country's capital, is a progressive city, though there are pockets which have a village feel (if you don't focus too much on the sleek, ubiquitous IKEA chairs). Once you get out of town, Sweden's starkly beautiful forests and giant lakes lend themselves perfectly to outdoor activities from iceskating to moose-spotting.

Area: 8,850,000
Population: 736,000
Capital city: Stockholm
People: 90% Swedes, 3% Finns, 0.15% Sami (indigenous Lapp inhabitants).
Language: Swedish, but English is widely spoken. Five Samish dialects are still spoken.
Religion: Lutheran.
Government: Constitutional hereditary monarchy.
Prime Minister: Göran Persson.

GDP: EUR250 billion
GDP per head: EUR28,283
Annual growth: 1%
Inflation: 2%
Major industries: Forestry, mining, agriculture, engineering and high tech manufacturing, telecommunications, IKEA
Major trading partners: EU, US
Member of EU: yes
Euro zone participant: no

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History

Written records survive only from late in the Middle Ages. But the number and variety of fortifications, assembly places, votive sites and graves is impressive. Humankind and metallurgy made late appearances and only in the Bronze Age, after the arrival of Indo-Europeans, was there rich trade. The country's early cultural life is still vividly represented in the hällristningar (rock paintings) that survive in many parts of Sweden. In the Mälaren valley, the first known trading posts were established and monuments with runic inscriptions appeared.

The Viking Age was getting under way by the 9th century, and vast repositories of Roman, Byzantine and Arab coins attest to the wealth and power Swedish Vikings accumulated over the next century. Vikings travelled mostly to the east, making their mark in Russia, as well as trading with (and pillaging) Byzantine territories. Pagan gods and slightly more earthbound kings held sway over the domestic population, with Christianity only taking root in the 11th century. Internal squabbles whiled away the bulk of the Middle Ages until Denmark interceded in 1397, when, together with Norway, they joined Sweden in the Union of Kalmar. A century of Swedish nationalist grumblings erupted in rebellion under Gustaf Vasa, who was crowned in 1523. Gustaf then set about introducing religious reform and a powerful centralised nation-state. A period of expansion resulted in Sweden's control over much of Finland and the Baltic countries.

In 1809, the unrestricted power vested in the monarch was undone by aristocratic revolt and Finland was lost to Russia. The same year, Sweden produced a constitution that divided legislative powers between king and Riksdag (parliament). The post of ombudsman appeared as a check on the powers of the bureaucracy. In 1814 the military enforcement of the union with Norway was Sweden's last involvement with war.

Industry arrived late but was based on efficient steelmaking and the safety match, a Swedish invention. Iron-ore mining, important for at least 300 years, and then steel manufacture, began to expand, creating a prosperous middle class. But an 1827 statute, which scattered the agricultural villages of much of Sweden's countryside, had more immediate and far-reaching effects - the old social fabric disappeared. By 1900 almost one in four Swedes lived in cities and industry (based on timber, precision machinery and hardware) was on the upswing. In this environment the working class was radicalised.

Sweden declared itself neutral at the outbreak of WW I and was governed bilaterally until 1917. But food shortages caused unrest and consensus was no longer possible. For the first time a social democratic government took control. The social democrats dominated politics after 1932, reworking the liberal tendencies of the 1920s to join economic intervention with the introduction of a welfare state. These trends were scarcely interrupted until the 1970s when economic pressures began to cloud Sweden's social goals. It was then that support for social democracy first wavered, looking particularly shaky after the 1986 assassination of Prime Minister Olof Palme and its murky aftermath.

The political breeze shifted to the right in 1991 when a Moderate-led coalition won power. The experiment with rightist economics and the move to EU membership left many Swedes uncertain and disillusioned, allowing the social democrats to sneak back to form a minority government in 1994. The social democrats suffered further losses in the 1995 elections, but have managed to cling to power under Prime Minister Göran Persson who relies on the support of the Centre Right party or the Greens. In late 1996, 10 years after Palme's assassination, a leader of a South African hit-squad accused a former Rhodesian soldier of Palme's murder, citing him as a mercenary - Palme was a tireless critic of South Africa's apartheid policies.

Sweden has yet to join the single European currency scheme, but a referendum is likely to be held on the issue. However, the widening gap between rich and poor is causing disquiet, racial tension is increasing and arguments continue to rage over EU membership.

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Culture

The best known members of Sweden's artistic community have been writers: chiefly the influential dramatist and author August Strindberg and the widely translated children's writer Astrid Lindgren, creator of Pippi Longstocking. The Gustavian balladry of Carl Michael Bellman, rarely heard outside Scandinavia, speaks directly to the Swedish soul. Vilhelm Moberg, a representative of 20th century proletarian literature, won international acclaim with The Immigrants and The Emigrants. Carl von Linné was an 18th century scientist who made pioneering field studies of plant species using Latin names. Still better known is Alfred Nobel, first patron of the Nobel Institute and the coveted international prizes.

Swedish is a Germanic language, belonging to the Nordic branch, and is spoken throughout Sweden and in parts of Finland. Swedes, Danes and Norwegians can, however, make themselves mutually understood since their languages are similar. Most Swedes speak English as a second language, so lazy tongues can get away without wrapping themselves round those Swedish vowels. Sweden has a Lutheran state church, which all citizens in principle join (in fact about 95% of citizens are members). The state, however, guarantees religious freedom.

Hungry Swedes tuck into fish which is usually poached or fried in lard. Pickled herring is especially popular and the potato is basically indispensable. As well as being the vegetable of ubiquity, spuds are critically important in the production of excellent Swedish aquavit. Strong beer, wines and spirits are sold by the state monopoly Systembolaget at outlets in the cities and towns, which are open weekdays. You must normally decide what you want from price lists and displays and then take a number and wait: Friday afternoon queues can be long.

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Getting There & Getting Around

The main international airport is Arlanda, half an hour's bus ride north of Stockholm. There are daily services to and from most European capitals. Most flights from North American and Asian centres fly through Copenhagen where you may have to change planes. An airport departure tax of Skr95 is included in ticket prices. Buses and trains link up with ferries to provide services to and from Sweden, Denmark, Finland, Norway, Germany, Poland, Estonia and the UK. Swedish ports of entry include Gothenburg, Helsingborg, Malmö and Stockholm, although ferries from northwest Finland head straight for Umeå and Skellefteå in northern Sweden and services to Germany leave from Trelleborg.

Getting Around

Daily domestic flights crisscross the country, but Sweden's extensive bus and train systems render flying unnecessary unless you're really pressed for time. Trains are the basis of Swedish transport outside cities, serving regional centres more quickly than buses. Buses are often the only option once you get off the beaten track. Swedish roads are of a high standard, marred only by their popularity with moose, reindeer and elk around dawn and dusk. You need only a recognised full licence to drive in Sweden: an international licence is unnecessary unless you want to rent a car. Women should ask for discounts (tjejtaxa) in Stockholm taxis at night.

The motorways are not open to cyclists but the long, specially designed and scenic cycle routes are better anyway. Archipelago boats sail around Stockholm and Gothenburg, and steamers on lakes such as Vättern, Siljan and Torneträsk in Lapland make popular summer cruises and handy links if you are cycling or walking. Skippering your own boat can be perilous, given the dramatic changes in water level. Expect to encounter difficulties upon the slightest divergence from marked channels.

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Attractions

Stockholm

The medieval town of Stockholm expanded along the Baltic Sea, where an archipelago of 24,000 islands, skerries and lumps of rock have protected it from the open seas, making it ideally situated for trade and maritime activities. Most of the land masses are uninhabited, although the popularity of the area for boating means it can be hard finding anchorage in high summer. The Stockholm archipelago endures up to 20cm (8in) of ice through most of the winter. The city is best seen from the water, but you'll enjoy seeing the parklands of Djurgården or the alleys of Gamla Stan on foot.

Gamla Stan, situated on the island of Stadsholmen, is Stockholm's old town, which emerged in the 13th century. Its medieval streets are linked by a fantasy of lanes, arches and stairways. The present Royal Palace was completed in 1760, replacing the original, which was burned down in the 17th century. Today its apartments and armoury offer an excellent insight into the past. East of the city, the larger island of Djurgården offers wonderful parklands and a concentration of fine museums. One not to miss is Skansen, the world's first open-air museum, where exhibits from all over Sweden give it a rural feel. Skansen also includes a zoo, aquarium, forestry pavilion and a tobacco museum. On the western shore of Djurgården is the famous Vasamuseet, which grants you a look into the lives of 17th-century sailors. It's also a brilliant achievement in marine archaeology.

There are a number of hostels in central Stockholm, but the boat hostels moored at Skeppsholmen and south of Gamla Stan are increasingly popular. The city centre has a number of inexpensive to mid-priced restaurants offering a good variety of meals. Kungsgatan, east of the city centre, is the place to point your dancing shoes.

Vadstena

Set along Lake Vättern, beautiful Vadstena is one of the most pleasant towns in Sweden. The Renaissance castle Vadstena slott looks straight over the harbour and lake beyond. It is a mighty family project of the early Vasa kings, and it houses in the upper apartments some items of period furniture and paintings, including a Van Dyck. The equally impressive 15th-century klosterkyrkan or abbey is a combination of Gothic and some Renaissance features. Inside are the accumulated relics of St Birgitta and late-medieval sculpture, including a depiction of the saint during revelation. Also of note is Bjälboättens palats, the old convent and once royal residence. Buses run to/from Vadstena via Linköping, Jönköping and Örebro.

Evora

The walled town of Évora is one of the architectural gems of Portugal. Situated in Alto Alentejo in a landscape of olive groves, vineyards, wheat fields and brilliant spring flowers, it's a charming town with one-way backstreets so narrow that car wing mirrors have the potential to be lethal.

The focal point is the Praça do Giraldo, and its attractions include the Sé (cathedral), which has a museum of ecclesiastical treasures; the picturesque Templo Romano; and the Igreja de São Francisco, which contains a ghoulish ossuary chapel constructed with the bones and skulls of several thousand people.

Visby

The walled and cobbled medieval port of Visby is a living relic: more than 40 proud towers and the ruins of great churches attest to Visby's former Hanseatic glories. The contemporary ruins of Drotten, St Nicolai, St Lars and St Carin are all within the town walls and contrast with the old but sound cathedral of St Maria. Gotlands Fornsal is the historical museum with a fine collection of the Gotland picture stones of the pre-Viking period. During the second week of August, costumes and re-enactments commemorate medieval week. Visby is on the island of Gotland, which is serviced by flights from Stockholm and ferries from a number of mainland cities.

Oand

Öland is a small island containing ruins, fortifications and 400 windmills. The biggest Iron-Age ring fort on the island, Gråborg - with a diameter of 200m (656ft) and located in the south of the island - is an incredible sight. Nearby, Eketorp has been partly reconstructed as a museum to show what a fortified medieval village must have looked like. Equally impressive, north of here, are the ruins of Borgholm Castle, which was eventually burned and abandoned early in the 18th century. Also prominent are the lighthouses at the northern and southern tips of the island. Öland is reached from Kalmar via a 6000m (19,680ft) bridge, the longest in Europe. Öland is a popular place to celebrate Midsummer..

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Money & Costs

Currency: Swedish krona (Skr)

Sweden is fairly expensive and you can easily spend your money quickly, so it pays to plan your trip carefully. The cheapest way to visit is to camp in the woods for free, eat supermarket food and hitchhike along the roads - this will cost under EUR10 per day. If you stay in commercial campgrounds and prepare most of your own meals, you can squeak by on EUR25 per person per day. During the low-price summer period, if you stay in a mid-range hotel and eat moderately priced meals, expect to drop over EUR50 per day, or closer to EUR100 per day if you're traveling solo.

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Facts for the Traveler

Visas: Stays of up to 90 days (unlimited for Nordic citizens) are usually visa free, but South Africans, Hong Kong residents with Chinese passports and residents of many African, Asian, South American and some Eastern European countries should check requirements with Swedish embassies.
Health risks: None
Time: GMT/UTC plus 1 hour
Electricity: 220V 50Hz
Weights & measures: Metric
Tourism: 6 million visitors per year

When to Go

If you want sunshine, visit between late May and late July, bearing in mind that August can be both hot and wet. Many youth hostels, camping grounds and attractions open only in summer, from late June to mid-August. Summer in Sweden can be hot, sunny and beautiful, but travel in winter should be better planned and restricted. Big cities are in full swing all year-round.

Events

Midsummer, held at summer solstice, is Sweden's most enthusiastically celebrated festival. Pagan rites, such as maypole dancing, mingle with public holiday tie-loosening and liberal helpings of schnapps. The Lucia festival (13 December) has only been celebrated for about 60 years but has become very popular. As well as commemorating the martyrdom of a pious Sicilian girl, Lucia celebrates the coming of Christmas with processions of robed youngsters, plenty of glögg (a hot alcoholic fruit's punch) for the grownups, and singing. Christmas trees are decorated with straw animals and stars, cookie baking begins, and Santa Claus makes his final assessments of children's behaviour and does the last minute shopping. Santa obviously favours Swedish kids as he delivers presents in person rather than just chucking them down the chimney. Most households serve up ham at Christmas time, and many families still partake in the tradition of 'dipping in the pot' when slices of bread are soaked in ham juices.

New Year's Eve is a highly social time when friends get together, often setting off fireworks. Easter in Sweden incorporates the pagan belief that witches hang out with the devil in hell for the duration. Kids dressed up as witches doorknock houses in their neighbourhood, scamming lollies in exchange for drawings. Walpurgis Night (30 April) is a pagan festival celebrating the end of winter with bonfires and fireworks. May Day (1 May) is observed by marches and labour movement events.

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